“Against all odds”

In Uganda a country that can only be described as a microcosm of Africa where you encounter active volcanoes, deserts, amazing jungles, huge lakes and sprawling grassland savannahs I also stumbled onto an almost unbelievable story of survival.

Visitors to the Murchison Falls National Park will be awed, inspired but also saddened by their encounters of the resident lion prides of this truly wild and amazing park in the great lakes region of Eastern Africa.

I first became aware of this on-going battle that epitomises the human animal conflict that silently exists in almost every conservation area around the globe when I heard the story of Clarence. Now an aging male lion “Clarence” has had his share of hardships but defied all odds in what can only be described as one of the most inspiring tales I have come across in Africa. 

  Clarence in coalition with his brother fondly referred to as Bernie by the guides ruled the park for many years ruthlessly dispatching upcoming rivals, even killing the male of a rival pride in the area before disaster struck the brothers in 2011. Clarence got caught in a poacher’s snare that left him with a life-threatening injury on its hind leg. The kings, of the well-known six-member pride, had been limping in pain following the snare incident that led to a fracture in the limb. The field staff of Uganda wildlife authority (UWA) had observed that the fracture was evident and very serious, as the lower limb was hanging and only held by a small ligament. 

UWA took the courageous yet unusual decision to intervene as part of their fight against the on-going losses due to poaching in the park. Dr Atimnedi in an effort to save Clarence performed the first amputation on a wild lion in the park removing the lower part of him leg in a procedure that lasted approximately an hour. This led to the start of an unparalleled survival story of a very unusual pride of lions.  This saga led me to take a keen interest in these lions that showed an incredible will to survive and adapt against all odds. 

Not only did “Bernie” take over the leadership from his once more dominant brother, he also showed incredible compassion not often documented in male lions, by supporting and hunting for his now vulnerable disabled brother.  The females in the pride adjusted to this new very unique dynamic and ensured the survival of the pride.   

Other lions in the park suffered a similar fate in the never ending human conflict but showed the same resilience. One female was trapped in a particularly nasty device referred to as a wheel trap and had to undergo an amputation in order to save her life. A second lion from the same pride was caught in a wire snare and was able to free herself and healed but shows signs of impairment due to the injuries.

Both Pamela (the female with the amputated limb) and Wako (snare victim) survived and is still regularly encountered in the park.  Sadly Bernie died about four months ago when he was suffocated due to a snare caught around his neck. 

 The good news came when one of Premier Safari’s tour operators visited the park recently and encountered Clarence “the 3 legged lion of Murchison’s” as he is now known amongst the visitors. Not only was he healthy and moving around with the pride, he was actually mating and ensuring the enduring spirit of this special pride lives on to write the next chapter of this very special groups of lions. We can all learn a lot about hardship and an incredible will to survive from these lions. Against all odds the pride survives proving once again “africa is not for the weak at hart”.

The problem remains in Murchison’s Falls National Park: 

Poaching remains a major challenge in Murchison Falls, Uganda's largest national park, according to the Conservation Area Manager.

Some of the poachers are armed, while others use wire snares that either kill the targeted animals or injure other game indiscriminately. The park also accounts for the largest remaining population of Rothschild Giraffe (approximately 75% of the remaining giraffe of this sub-specie can be found in the park)   

  

What is being done? 

The Wildlife conservation society together with Uganda Wildlife Authority and other role-players such as Uganda Conservation Foundation and Marasa Africa lodges in Uganda are involved in a concerted effort to conserve and ensure the future of this majestic wildlife area to ensure that future visitors can experience the wildlife of this park. 

Most recent campaign:    

 Marasa Africa, a member of the Madhvani Group of Companies, one of the largest private-sector groups in East Africa, joined Uganda Conservation Foundation in supporting and creating awareness through their marketing efforts of World Lion Day that took place on the 10^th of August 2010, a day that was celebrated around the world to call attention to the endangerment of the King of Beasts.  On the day, the Marasa properties in Uganda – Chobe Safari Lodge; Paraa Safari Lodge and Mweya Safari Lodge, also donated $1.00 for each room night at their lodges to the UCF to ensure conservation through Action programmes that provide practical support to revitalise and protect natural habitats, biodiversity and also helps protect lions in the national parks from poachers. This will also benefit the vulnerable tree climbing lions in ishasha -guests of the lodges were also informed and invited to donate to the UCF.

With Ugandan marine ranger posts at both Semanya and at Paraa, the UCF is able to specifically target snare-setting lion poachers who come across Lake Albert. UCF director Patrick Shah says “Our continuing program of building land and marine ranger posts in Murchison Falls Conservation Area will further reinforce our efforts and have a direct effect on lion welfare.”

Travel to Uganda:  

Below is some links to the role players in Uganda, experience the pearl of Africa with informed experienced partners. Uganda needs to be added to your “bucket list” if it’s not already there. Where else will you meet the largest remaining population of the endangered population of mountain gorillas, followed by a adventurous water safari down the white Nile.  

·         Marasa Africa lodges in the National parks - www.marasa.net

·         Premier Safaris – East Africa Travel provider – www.premiersafaris.com

 

Conservation support in Uganda

·         Uganda Wildlife Authority – http://www.ugandawildlife.org/

·         Uganda Conservation Foundation - http://www.ugandacf.org/

·         Giraffe conservation Foundation - http://www.giraffeconservation.org/

·         Wildlife conservation society - http://www.wcs.org/where-we-work/africa/uganda.aspx

Visit the Chimps with Premier Safaris

Kibale National Park, Africa’s premier destinations for chimpanzee tracking tours. Thirteen species can be sought, and a good variety of diurnal monkeys invariably encountered, but the stars of this trail are the chimpanzees.

 Kanyanchu’s chimps have been tracked since 1993 and the chances of locating them are excellent. Premier safaris offers a range of Chimp encounter programmes as part of their primate focused range of products that varies from the normal Chimp walks to a full-day Chimpanzee Habituation Experience that allows you to work  with a chimp community which is undergoing habituation.

The full day programme begins with an early start as you watch chimps leaving their overnight nests between 6:00 - 6:30am before feeding, copulating, hunting, breastfeeding, resting, patrolling and displaying until it is time to build new nests around 7pm.

Premier Safaris uses it local knowledge and wide spectrum of ground support and well trained Driver guides to assist you to get the most out of your Primate Safari. They also select the best complementary accommodation to ensure a well-rounded one’s in a lifetime adventure for the discerning traveller.

When visiting Kibale’s forests they use two very unique and interesting lodges that adds to the experience and form part of the exploration.

Set against a stunning backdrop of Lake Kyaninga and the legendary Mountains of the Moon beyond, Kyaninga Lodge is the spectacular result of one man’s vision and six years of unwavering commitment to creating an experience of Africa’s beauty unlike anything else. When Englishman Steve Williams first saw the lake on his way to visit the gorillas, there was nothing there aside from unspoilt natural beauty and breath-taking vistas.

 

There aren’t many people who could stand on the rim of an ancient crater lake thousands of miles from home, and have the vision to imagine building a luxury lodge entirely out of timber on that very spot. Six years and over a thousand hand carved logs later the stunning vistas remain, and thanks to Steve’s achievements, they can now be enjoyed in ultimate comfort and style.

 

 

 

 

Ndali Lodge is set stunningly amidst the Bunyaruguru Crater Lake region of Western Uganda, 26 kilometres south of Fort Portal lies at the centre of 1000 acres of privately owned fertile farmland still cultivated in a traditional style. Ndali Lodge is perched on the rim of an extinct volcano which, since its demise, has filled with water to become the breath-taking Lake Nyinambuga – 250 acres in size and 130 metres deep.

 

A visit to Uganda would not be complete without experiencing the wonders Ndali has to offer....

Kibale National Park
The star attraction are the 1500 chimpanzees, but the guided walks will offer the opportunity to see rare red colobus and L’Hoest monkeys, as well as olive baboon, grey cheeked mangabey, blue monkeys and bush babies. The forest is also home to over 300 species of birds, with six species endemic to the park, and other mammals including leopard, rare forest elephants, buffalo, giant forest hog and half a dozen species of antelope.

Premier Safaris

Premier Safaris is also a much respected Destination Management company for High End international Tour Operators and is known for its purpose built quality Safari Vehicle, Knowledgeable guides and ground support.  They are part of the Madhvani group of companies in Uganda that also own the Marasa Africa lodges in the national parks in Uganda.

Premier Safaris also offer extended Primate focused Safaris that include Gorilla tracking in Bwindi as well as a conservation and research Gorilla programme with extended visitations to Gorilla families.

www.premiersafaris.com or email reservations@premiersafaris.com

The song and dance

As humans, we have a multitude of ways and means used to attract that significant other. We learn and practise our approach while we grow up, and if we are fortunate we get better at it as we go along.  From the traditional “dinner and a movie,” to online platforms used for dating such as  Match.com, finding a good match can be as simple as being in the right place at the right time, or merely logging in and browsing online profiles.

In the animal world, this can be a matter of survival and becomes vitally important and can be just as competitive. They don’t have online profiles or first, second, and third dates. However, many different animal species have a round of “go to” courtship rituals all their own.  When members of the bird class court one another, they draw from mating practices in any of the following forms: singing, feather/plumage displays, preening/cleaning, feeding, nest building, etc.

 

Photos by Jonothan Hen-Boisen (Eastern Grey plantain eater )

 

Having moved to Uganda, I decided to take advantage of the birding paradise of Africa and sharpen my birding skills. This was decidedly more difficult than initially anticipated as the pearl of Africa has the ability to overwhelm you with its birding display that makes it daunting for the novice birder. I diced to take a back seat and watch the wonder of birding unfold.

There are many ways that birds seek to attract a mate, and understanding bird courtship behaviour can help birders better appreciate the complexity of the bird relationships forming in their midst as I learned from observing birds in my own backyard.

The ultimate purpose of courtship is very similar to those we practise as humans with our song and dance, “attract a receptive mate”, but there are actually several other purposes behind the courtship behaviour of different bird species. The intricate moves of a courtship dance and the recognizable bird sounds and songs used to attract mates can help distinguish species so birds are sure to choose compatible mates in the same way we do. I have noticed that birds use different courtship behaviours in order to reduce territorial aggression between birds, letting them relax together to form a pair bond. Depending on the type of behaviour, and how birds react in courtship, can also display strength, health and mating desirability, allowing different birds to choose the best partners and ensure viable offspring.

I had the fortunate opportunity of watching a female Eastern grey plantain eater and her numerous male suitors going through their paces in order to delight and impress recently, and decided to become the proverbial “peeping tom” in order to get a better insight into the world of birding. I found myself enthralled by each challenger and even found myself routing for a specific challenger that needless to say, much as myself that day didn’t get lucky.

We all have a fascination with reality shows, and this one was no disappointment with lower than their normal pitch “almost grunting “ sounds from the males leading to full out pecking at each other, and flaunting displays of prominent plumage to indicate their suitability as a mate.

One of the males showed a very interesting intimacy as part of the mating ritual that possibly helps to diffuse the excitement associated with their normal spatial boundaries and aggression. They lightly preened one another, while their bodies touched and leaned into one another as if to show that the intent wasn’t harmful.  He even returned her affection with what can only be described as a passionate kiss, although this could have been an indication of feeding although he didn’t have any visible food. I’m assuming that he might have had some hidden food to stack the odds against any would be competitor.

I have learned that with practice it is possible to identify birds based on their mating behaviour, very similar to how we watch mammals while doing bush walks for signs of danger. Furthermore, if a birder recognizes the courtship rituals of a bird, they can learn to look nearby for other birds that the displaying bird is hoping to impress.

I’m slowly being transformed from the backyard “peeping tom” into a full blooded and dreaded birder.

For more info on specialist birding Safaris in Uganda contact operations@premiersafaris.com or visit their website at www.premiersafaris.com - link

For accommodation in national parks in Uganda visit Marasa Africa at www.marasa.net

 

Photos by Jonothan Hen-Boisen (Eastern Grey plantain eater )

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

When your garden comes alive

I recently moved into a new house in bugolobi Kampala specifically selected for its garden and the potential to create my own little Eden. Over the last couple of months myself and my very hardworking gardener “Jeffrey “have been painstakingly clearing a very overgrown garden to reconstruct my vision of the perfect patch to have a relaxing weekend after a hard working week.

Well into our fourth week of replanting the now cleared area with a variety of Ugandan plant species guaranteed to provide our little haven down the line, I regularly found myself on the deck at night with the dogs inspecting the progress in the rays of the floodlights, that were now also in place to provide just the right kind of lighting to feature the oasis we were creating.   

On this particular evening the dogs started to run around and bark at me, scout my trusty German Sheppard and protected tugged at me, and in an instance I noticed what seemed like all the birds in Kampala emerging from our large well established fig trees.

 

Peering through the garden, while birds flew past the flood lights creating shadows and eerie sounds it looked as if the plants and trees started to vibrate or move. I had this sinking feeling that a heavy construction vehicle was moving through my garden and destroying everything in its path. I just couldn’t see it.  

No, this wasn’t the result of some well grown weed or hallucinate drug but it definitely caught me off guard. As I ran into the house I noticed everything was shaking, fridges, standing fans and crockery started to vibrate. We moved outside and were joined by the staff that were definitely not as concerned as I was.

I later realised they knew this all too well; when they casually informed me not to worry as it’s just another earthquake. Having never actually experienced an earthquake before, I can remember thinking that they definitely didn’t include this one in the guide books. One more reason to visit Uganda I thought to myself – “Come visit Uganda and survive your first moderate earthquake”

After some web searching we now know where it started and educated ourselves on Uganda’s tremors

The facts:  The earthquake was a  M 5.7 Earthquake, that occurred 51km W of Kigorobya, Uganda. We were informed to expect aftershocks (Even though I must add that we only heard about this after we experienced the actual aftershocks). These secondary shockwaves are usually less violent than the main quake but can be strong enough to do additional damage to weakened structures and can occur in the first hours, days, weeks, or even months after the quake.

Three moderate earthquakes shook Uganda's Albertine region this week, causing little damage but raising concern about the quake-prone country's preparedness in the event of major seismic activity.

According to Uganda’s Department of Geological Survey and Mines, in the Ministry of Energy and Minerals, the first of the three quakes - with a magnitude of 5.2 - occurred on the afternoon of 2 July, while a second, measuring 5.4, occurred late in the evening on 3 July. A third, measuring 5.7 and described by seismologists as "dangerous", took place at 01:22 am on 4 July.

The tremors were felt mainly in Kampala, Hoima and Kagadi in Midwestern Uganda and in Bunia in the Democratic Republic of the Congo, according to the European-Mediterranean Seismological Centre and earthquake-report.com

"This is an area of seismic activity. The occurrence was due to weakness of the earth faults, which resulted to faulting," Fred Tugume, the principal geophysicist in the Department of Geological Survey and Mines, told IRIN. Faulting is a sudden lateral or vertical movement of rock along the earth's surface.

Environmentalists have expressed concern about the possible environmental impact of on-going oil drilling around Lake Albert, the epicentre of the earthquake. However, Ugandan authorities insist the earthquakes and the oil activities are unrelated. Oil companies exploring in the area say oil can be safely extracted with minimal harm to the environment.

"Earthquakes have been there. We live with them. However, this repeated occurrence is worrying. We are going to analyse the phenomena and see why," Tugume added.

We experienced a couple of tremors since, and we now too are used to a little giggle and jive as part of Kampala nightlife. I have since decided that it’s a part of Uganda and actually find it interesting that I survived my first, be it a moderate earthquake. My bucket list didn’t actually include an earthquake but has since been updated and now reflect 11 must do things before I die, its cheating but I couldn’t resist.

 

For those of you wondering, I lost a tree in my little piece of Eden in the process but that garden has actually been enhanced by this. I now have a nice sunny spot to grow vegetables that’s not visible from my porch leaving my vision intact.

Story by C.T Schalkwyk , Premier Safaris Uganda